Domfordomdry and clean: a bathroom reference

An independent reference about bathrooms and the wet rooms of a home. We sell nothing and do no work; we are not connected with the former site on this domain. Trust electrics, gas and shared building pipes only to specialists.

How-to

How-to guides

Small bathroom problems rarely need a pro, but they are easy to let slide. Blackened sealant along the tub, water that drains slowly from the sink, dull grout lines between tiles: you can deal with all of these in a calm evening. We describe the order of work in general terms. Drying times, the number of coats and suitable products differ from one material to another, so be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions on the package before you start.

First a closed valve and the instructions read, then the scraper and the sealant.

— Worth remembering

How this section works: each guide is a short sequence of steps with no brands, calculations or timings. We do not cover electrics, gas or shared building pipes: that work is done only by specialists or the building management.

How to renew the sealant around a tub

  1. Assess the joint

    If the sealant has darkened from within, come away from the edge or there is moisture under it, replace it entirely. A new bead over the old one holds poorly and soon goes the same way.

  2. Remove the old sealant

    Cut the bead with a sealant knife along the tile and along the tub and pull the strip out. Scrape off the remains with a plastic scraper, taking care not to scratch the enamel or glaze. If the old bead holds firmly, use a sealant remover strictly per the manufacturer's instructions.

  3. Clean and dry the joint

    Wash the joint, remove residue and dark specks with a suitable product used per its instructions, and leave everything to dry. Dryness matters more than speed here: sealant will go onto a damp surface, but it will not hold. Keep the bathroom ventilated while you work.

  4. Prepare the tub and edges

    Fill the tub with water: its weight makes the tub settle slightly, and a joint made in that position will not stretch when you bathe. For a neat line, apply painter's tape on both sides of the future joint.

  5. Apply the sealant

    Run the sealant from the gun in an even, continuous bead without stopping at the corners. Smooth the joint with a tool or a gloved finger as the manufacturer advises, and peel off the painter's tape right away, before the sealant starts to set.

  6. Let the joint cure

    Do not bathe or run water onto the joint until the time stated on the package has passed. Drain the tub only after the sealant has set, and keep the room ventilated the whole time.

How to clean a sink trap

  1. Prepare the area

    Turn off the faucet and tell everyone at home not to run the water. If the washing machine drains into the trap, close the valve on its supply line. Empty the vanity, put a bucket under the trap and keep rags nearby.

  2. Remove the trap bowl

    Unscrew the lower part of the trap by hand, without tools or jerking, as shown in its instructions. The water and gunk inside will drain into the bucket. If the nuts will not budge or the plastic looks brittle, stop and call a plumber.

  3. Rinse the parts

    Clean the bowl and the pipe with a brush under running water in another sink or in the tub. Check the rubber washers: if they are cracked or out of shape, replace them with identical ones.

  4. Reassemble the trap

    Put the parts back, make sure the washers sit evenly, and hand-tighten the nuts. There is no need to overtighten plastic connections: too much force cracks them.

  5. Check the connections

    Turn on the water, let it drain, then run a dry paper towel under every connection. If drops appear, tighten the nut or reassemble that part. Use drain cleaners only per the manufacturer's instructions and never mix them with one another.

How to refresh tile grout

  1. Wash the grout

    Start with ordinary cleaning: a grout brush and a product approved by the manufacturer of your tile and grout. Often the grout lightens on its own after this, and you can stop there.

  2. Find weak spots

    Test the grout with a fingernail or the tip of a scraper. If it crumbles, falls out or there is a hollow beneath it, that section needs renewing, not just cleaning.

  3. Clear out the joint

    Carefully remove the old grout with a dedicated grout tool without catching the tile edges. Remove the dust with a vacuum or a damp sponge and let the joint dry completely.

  4. Fill the joint

    Mix the new grout strictly per the manufacturer's instructions and press it into the joint with a rubber float held at an angle. Wipe off the excess with a slightly damp sponge without washing the grout out of the joint.

  5. Let the grout harden

    Do not wet the renewed grout until the time in the instructions has passed. Remove the whitish haze from the tile with a dry cloth. If the manufacturer recommends a protective sealer, apply it only to fully dried grout.

  • Tools

    What to keep on hand for inspections, small repairs and leaks: from a flashlight and a level to a bucket and rags.

  • Care

    Caring for grout, sealant, drains, faucets, the exhaust fan, glass, textiles and bath mats, by fixture and by season.

  • FAQ

    Answers about this reference, about bathroom and toilet renovations, about caring for wet rooms and about what to do when there is a leak.

What we rely on

  • Instructions from manufacturers of finishes and plumbing fixtures
  • Domfordom editorial materials

Domfordom's advice is written in general terms and is based on the instructions of finish and plumbing fixture manufacturers and on guidance from building management. Check the label for sealant or grout drying times and for how to use a cleaning product, and leave electrics, gas and shared building pipes to specialists.