An independent reference about bathrooms and the wet rooms of a home. We sell nothing and do no work; we are not connected with the former site on this domain. Trust electrics, gas and shared building pipes only to specialists.
Materials
Materials
In a bathroom, materials are tested not by time but by water. Steam settles on the walls, splashes hit the floor, towels dry nearby, and the joints between tiles get wet and dry out again every day. So a good material for a wet room is not necessarily the most striking one. What matters more is how it copes with moisture and cleaning, whether it is easy to touch up, and whether a dark edge will eventually appear where the wall meets the tub or shower base.
Tile lasts exactly as long as the grout between the tiles.
— Worth remembering
How this section works: we describe groups of materials in general terms, covering where they fit, what they struggle with and what to ask your contractor. We do not name brands, models or costs, so check the properties of any specific material against the manufacturer's instructions.
What wet rooms are finished with
The groups of materials you will come across when renovating a bathroom, toilet or laundry nook.
Tile and mosaic
The go-to finish for a wet room: a dense glazed surface is easy to wash and does not mind water. Mosaic works well on curved surfaces and in niches, but it has far more grout lines, which means more upkeep. For the floor, choose tile that does not get slippery when wet; the manufacturer's description usually says so.
Grout fills the joints between tiles, while sealant closes the joints that move slightly: around the tub, shower base and sink and in the corners. Some grouts are standard and some resist water and stains better; the latter go in the shower and on the floor. Sealant for a wet room should be made for bathrooms and kitchens, as stated on the package.
Panels and paints for damp rooms help refresh walls without major work or finish spots that rarely get wet. They handle steam well, but they do not replace waterproofing where water runs straight onto the wall. The surface under paint must be dry and prepared the way the instructions require.
The bathroom floor meets water first. Ceramic and stone tolerate wet mopping but can be slippery; wood-based flooring does not like water, and moisture-resistant vinyl-type floors behave differently depending on how the seams are made. Under any floor in a wet room, waterproofing matters, especially at the threshold and around the drain.
A glass panel looks light and does not absorb moisture, but drops and hard-water deposits show on it, so it is handy to wipe it right after a shower. A curtain is easier to wash and replace, but it must fully cover the edge of the tub, or water ends up on the floor. Shower glass should be tempered and made for the purpose, and installation is best left to a pro.
This is where standalone Domfordom articles about bathrooms, toilets and laundry nooks will appear. We write them specifically for readers of the English version and publish each one once the text is ready and double-checked.
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What we rely on
Instructions from manufacturers of finishes and plumbing fixtures
Domfordom editorial materials
Domfordom's advice is written in general terms and is based on the instructions of finish and plumbing fixture manufacturers and on guidance from building management. Check the label for sealant or grout drying times and for how to use a cleaning product, and leave electrics, gas and shared building pipes to specialists.